I am writing this because I see an increasing number of model ships sold on Ebay described as 'Museum Quality'. I have yet to see one so described that actually WAS museum quality.There are very strict terms governing everything from materials to paint finish laid down for model ships to be accepted by museums. Just run a search on Google and you will see what I mean. The finished ship models sold on ebay for the most part are mass produced in the Far East by artisans who have no historical concept of say, an 18th century fully rigged man of war but are able to follow detailed drawings and produce a facsimile of one fairly quickly.(and , more importantly, cheaply)

Don't get me wrong, I am not knocking these models for what they are, a decorative representation of a sailing ship, but that is all they are and I object to the term 'Museum quality' as if they are something you will find in the Smithsonian because you won't (except perhaps as folk art) So do buy these models if you like them and enjoy them but don't buy them as an 'investment' or thinking you are getting a museum grade item. Bottom line, you get what you pay for so bear that in mind when you look at these models. A fully rigged 18th century warship will take at least 6-9 months to build from scratch (accurately) by a skilled builder to museum standards. Therefore something that sells for 500 bucks is unlikely to have had much attention to detail lavished on it or taken more than a few days to build.

I am a museum designer/artist/modelmaker of some 20 years, and have work in Museums all over Europe and in private collections worldwide. I don't sell my work on ebay so have no alterior motive, but I do know what 'Museum Quality' means!!

Please pay careful attention to my guide ratings! You'll notice the number of unhappy sellers that are attempting to trash my ratings because the information contained here calls attention to their shady business practices. Keep those negatives coming!
For those of you honest people, I hope that this information helps you and that you will give me that acknowledgement.



It is a shame that there are so many people fooled by some of the fake items being toted as the "real deal" here on ebay and elsewhere. Some seller's were duped themselves, when they bought the items, others know darn right well that they are selling a fake. Watch for terms like "Marked RS Prussia" ('I only said it was "marked" RS Prussia' per one seller who emailed me) or "RS Prussia Mark". Watch out for shoes, the Village & Horses sugar & creamer, the lavender cheese keep, oyster plates, cracker jars, wash sets (pitcher & bowl) and the fake COBALT WITH ANGELS Chocolate set that is all over ebay. That one really fries me. Certain sellers list and sell this item over and over again. Also, beware if the seller can not tell you the mold number or decoration number of the item.

So you are looking at some of the beautiful jade, turquoise, silver, and carved bone items from China and Tibet, many of them "antique"? ...... Here are some things to consider:

1. If they don’t tell you the dimensions, ask before you buy. They may look great in the photos, but many of the things I purchased were in miniature. Even when there are measurements, a 2.5" X 2" item is the size of a ping pong ball. Keep in mind that the photos shown are often misleading, showing the item many times it’s actual size.

2. When the item is sold for a ridiculously low price like a penny, and the shipping is $15.00, the money back guarantee is for the cost of the item, so if it’s not what you expected, or a cheap replica of the item you expected, you pay to ship it back and get a refund of the penny, not the shipping, and you have to pay the return shipping!

3. If you purchase the insurance, you get the entire amount back, shipping and cost, if the item is broken. However, you have to open the package before you sign for it, and refuse to accept the package. Otherwise it’s yours. The items I received were well packed in a block of styrofoam, with the entire package double wrapped in shipping tape. It’s not easy getting into the package, and when you do get it open, have a vacuum handy, because tiny balls of styrofoam will go everywhere. I could not bring myself to have the carrier wait at my door while I cut into the package with a razor knife. He hands you the slip to sign before he hands you the package. Some of the tiny metal items had broken where they were soldered or brazed, either in shipping or within a few minutes of taking them out of the packing. You have no recourse.

4. When you buy things like "jade and silver" or "antique turquoise" pendants or teapots or jewelry boxes, don’t expect the polished jade we are used to seeing with jewelry items. This is rough-cut stuff barely polished. The "antique" jewelry box was built just like a wooden box would be... cut slabs of jade with mitered corners glued together and polished a little on the outside and with saw marks still on the inside. The top is the same way, and lifts off... not hinged. A "Beautiful silver inlay jade jewel box" which cost GBP 3.20 ($5.70) and shipping of GBP 20.00 ($34.92) had the filigreed silver design broken loose in two places where it had been soldered. The inside of the box is just about big enough to hold a package of cigarettes. The "silver" is a silver colored metal which may or may not be sterling silver and is as thin as paper and soldered together to fit around the item. This stuff is definitely not meant for use, just for display.

5. "Antique’s" are often described as from a "private collection" or "an Asian Collection". If the things I purchased were from any "collection" it was from collectors that likes duplicates, because the exact items are sold over and over on the same site, as well as many other sites. I have to assume that they are "collected" from a factory turning out mass productions of similar items. It’s true that no two are alike, since they are handmade, however the same photo is used for many different auctions, and in one case the photo was different from the item I received. The photo showed the silver around the corners and the one I received had it on the sides. But essentially the same box.

6. Many of these auctions are priced in British Pounds or another currency we are not that familiar with. Remember that GBP 1.00 is roughly $1.75 in US dollars, depending on the current exchange rate. Currently, an item selling for GBP 11.08 is $19.74 in dollars. In 2005 the exchange rates were a low of $1.71 to a high of $1.88 to the pound. Go to a currency converter website like Yahoo Finance and do the math before you bid!

7. None of the things I purchased were actually misrepresented. I was disappointed with most of the items I "won", many of them for a few cents with inflated shipping. The combined shipping on half a dozen items saves you 20% or so, and is an enticement for bargain shoppers to purchase multiple items from all the wonderful Oriental artwork offered. An 11" "Chinese Stainless Steel Blade Scimitar" though true it is almost a foot long and very nice and well made, was still a miniature. And while it was described as "very heavy with one sharp edge and a large radius" the handle is of a size that would fit into the hand of a five year old. The $25.00 shipping alone was more that I would pay for a similar item here, even if I were in the market for a dangerous weapon for a five year old, which I am definitely not.

8. I checked out the feedback on the merchants I placed bids with before I bid, and all have mostly good feedback. Upon second look, a lot of it is "item as described" or "well packaged" and other noncommittal remarks, but very few glowing recommendations. And I will leave the same, because the items are as described and they are well packaged. In reality, the only place to lay blame for spending a hundred dollars (American Money!) on a bunch of trinkets, for which I have no real use, is myself.

9. My advice: There are some great deals on ebay, and I have been happy with almost everything I've purchased over the years. But if it seems too good to be true, there's probably a catch!

BEWARE of SELLERS who claim "Tested" or "Unmarked" for Gold OR Silver items!

My father and I have owned a pawn shop for many years and I am very familiar - actually, an EXPERT in gold and silver testing. I did it for him (up to less than a year ago) for about 20+ years.

*****About 95-98% of all people who claim "testing" for gold or silver, whether knowingly or unknowingly, are testing incorrectly.*****

A chemical test for gold OR silver only tests for the "presence" of a specific metal.... It does NOT test for plating, the most important consideration. If an item is silver plated with sterling silver as the plating, it will test positive as sterling silver.
Simply put, saying that an item tests positive for silver or gold is not the same as saying "solid". It means that where the chemical was applied, the "metal" for the test was present, and it turned positive.
For another example: You can also test an object to see if it there is a "presence" of 18k, and it WILL test positive if it is [18k] plated. Again, it is because [it] reacts with the 18k in the plating.

Testing acids are not "intelligent". They don't "know" they need to ignore the metal plating and "look" below the surface and test the metal below the surface metal. The solution only reacts to the existence of a substance, and if it is present (i.e. in the plating), even along with other metals such as brass, nickel, or aluminum below the plating, it will test positive and then you have a seller saying, "Not marked but tested positive for Sterling Silver", or "Not marked, but tested positive for 18k". Well... Duh...

The ONLY way, I REPEAT, the only way to genuinely test an object [not marked] is to take a file, remover a top layer of metal in any area of the item to remove any plating material, and carefully apply the acid to this area (without it touching the other unscratched area) and note the reaction. This is true of either the chemical tests or the electronic tests. The rule of thumb for all professionals in the jewelry and pawn business is: If it isn't marked .925, .900, SS, S.Silver, sterling,18k, 14k, etc, it is not.

Granted, it is possible for anyone to get a small metal stamp and stamp something on a piece that is not gold or silver (Oddly, this is extremely rare. I have only seen this once in 20 years of a pawn business!), but it is even rarer that an artist would make a piece and not stamp it.
This is especially true for Great Britain (they have VERY strict laws regarding the jewelry marking and hallmarks).
Believe it or not, Mexico is very good about marking their jewelry. Mexican and British jewelry are the finest in the world because of the strict and stringent marking guidelines by their governments. So, if it is being advertised as American, Britain or Mexican and the seller says "unmarked"... it is unmarked for a reason. It's because it isn't solid.

Even the most basic, small, and rustic jewelry companies and jewelers (in ANY country) know to mark their jewelry. They know until they do, the item is in question until it is properly marked!
If the "tested item" you just bought was tested, and it does NOT have a very noticeable scratched blemish somewhere (about the size of dime or as large as a quarter), it was not tested properly- or tested at all.

I have also seen, and I will try to type this without laughing, lots of ALPACA "sterling" advertised. One seller just last week in the description listed the buckle as "Displays a stamp saying ALPACA but we are sure it is solid sterling even though not marked".

ALPACA is another term for nickel silver. It contains NO silver content AT ALL. Zero. Nada. None. Nothing. Period. Don't believe me? Google "ALPACA silver" or look [it] up on www.wikipedia.com and see what definition you get. I'll save you the time, it's plain old nickel mixed with copper, aluminum, iron or sometimes just cheap pot-metal and then maybe plated with sterling, IF you're lucky.


Using what you have learned... DON'T be a SUCKER...
Ask your potential seller HOW was the test done. You will be surprised by the answers you receive! By the way, turning green in pickle-juice is NOT a valid test for solid sterling silver - believe it or not!

For some more GREAT information on sterling silver, search for a sellers guide written by eBay user sparklebizsilverjewelry. Great info in their guide too!

Estate Sales are a guilty pleasure. I go a few times a month and love to rummage through the past and see how people lived, what they collect and what they loved. It's a history lesson and a small glimpse of the past. Estate Sales provide a dual purpose. It cleans out a house that desperately needs to be emptied and provides goods for resellers, antique dealers and Ebayers alike. There are items like photographs, postcards, old kitchen utensils, tableware and figurines. Household items like quilts, bedspreads, linens, china, glass and much more can be offered.
We own a shop here in Mount Clemens Michigan and often host estate sales for families as well as go to them. I consider myself very lucky to get to see all of the vintage things that come in to my shop that come out of basements and attics.

It often makes families sad to let things go after the passing of a family member. I often tell my clients that once you take what's important to you, the rest is just stuff, material things. You can't take it with you and as a family member you can't keep it all either. An estate sale is a great way to dispose of goods and offer them for sale. While one would like to think that "regular people" are customers of estate sales, the fact is, the majority of people at any given sale are dealers of some sort. As the person hosting the sale, that is an important factor in how items are priced. If you price so that a profit can be made, things will fly out the door. If not, there will be plenty of things left to haul out or put in storage. You may end up having to throw something away that you could have made a few bucks on. I hope you enjoy some of my fun secrets to finding great things at Estate Sales.
Where are the Sales?- Estate sales are everywhere. Check all your local papers including the freebies. Some sales will be listed in one paper and not another. New websites are popping up all over the place to advertise sales. I know some in my area are using new Estate Sale sites that have gotten popular and bypassing newspapers all together. There is also a certain classified website started by a man named Craig ;) where you can also find house sales and lots of items for sale. Do your research and you may come across a sale others haven't seen.
Go Where Others do Not -- Estate Sale companies generally put all the "good stuff" in the front room by the cash out area where they can keep a good eye on it. I find that while everyone is rushing towards those items, be the first one into the basement or kitchen where lesser known or demand items wait for you.
Pick It Up Quick-- If you like it and are interested in it, pick it up. If you don't, believe me when I tell you someone else will. They will have no trouble snatching it out from under your nose.
Get There Early-- In our area you have to be the early bird to catch the worm. Dealers wait for hours to get into sales first. While I don't think it's completely necessary in order to get a good deal, it can help.
Get there Late- Don't think everything is gone the last day of a sale. Prices will become negotiable and what was once about making a profit becomes about clearing out a house. Many companies host bag sales and 50% to 75% off the last day.
Educate Yourself-- You can't know everything about everything, no one can. Pick an area of items you are interested in and learn all you can. For example, all estates have a kitchen. What type of old kitchen items are in demand? Surprisingly, coffee makers, small appliances and kitchen tools can command good prices and shouldn't be overlooked. I guarantee this isn't what the average antique dealer is looking for. Obscure areas are best and where you'll find the least amount of competition. Garages are another great example. Who doesn't have tools? Find out what tools bring cash and educate yourself on them.
Stay Away from the Obvious- Everyone knows McCoy and Roseville are popular collectibles and they are usually priced accordingly. While everyone else is fighting for the more common and obvious things, educate yourself on marks that aren't so obvious. Work on learning about good pottery that is unmarked for instance or the maker name that is represented by a symbol. It gives you a foot up on your competition.

Keep Your Hands Free-- My husband has a great old newspaper delivery sack he slings over his shoulder during a sale. He can put things right in it and it keeps him free to pick up more items as he goes along. I've seen others carry the plastic handled mesh bags like at the beach. It's perfect for hoarding your treasures.
Keep it Clean and Honest- There is a lot of bickering, pushing and shoving at sales. Stay out of it and put yourself above it. Getting a reputation as a trouble maker with an estate company will get you banned by all the companies. They talk amongst themselves and spread the word. No item is worth being blackballed or even subjecting yourself to that sort of nastiness. Theft is a common occurence in the Detroit area sales. It just hurts the industry and wrecks a good time for everyone.

Be Respectful- Sometimes even though a company may host a sale, family members will come. Keep your opinions to yourself if you don't like something. No family wants to hear what you think of their Precious Moments collection especially if you are saying it's worthless junk. It's just rude and cruel and don't forget that you don't know who is listening. You have been invited in to purchase what you are interested in. If you aren't interested, walk away and thank them for the opportunity.

"Sterling silver" is a frequently misused term, especially on eBay. Some have the impression that any silver may be termed "sterling" however the word sterling applies only to an item which has a guranteed silver content certified as a minimum of 925 parts out of 1,000 parts. The remaining 75 parts are an alloy of copper, nickel, and perhaps other metals.

No silver less than .925 fine can properly be called "sterling."

If you an eBay seller, exercise great care in listing an item as "sterling" since it is illegal under title 15, chapter 8 of the Code of Federal Regulations to in any way represent an item as sterling if it is not. Your error could subject you to the penalties set forth in the National Gold and Silver Stamping Act.

Section 23.6, Misrepresentation as to Silver Content, states: "(b) It is unfair or deceptive to mark, describe or otherwise represent all or part of an industry product as "silver," "solid silver," "Sterling Silver," "Sterling," or the abbreviation "Ster." unless it is at least 925/1,000ths pure silver."

eBay sellers who habitually violate this law risk penalties.

Coin silver or other solid silver which may have a fineness ranging from less than 700 up to 900 depending upon its country or origin is not sterling silver and cannot be termed "sterling."

Sometimes one will see deceptive sellers advertising items which are "sterling silver plated." Those articles are merely silver plated and the use of the word "sterling" is deceptive. In fact, silver plated items are plated with pure silver, not sterling silver.

One also sees eBay sellers advertising items marked "Alpacca" or "German Silver" as being sterling. They are not. Alpacca (also spelled Alpaca) and German silver are terms for an alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc. Such wares contain no silver whatsoever. Again, it is a violation of Federal law to represent that such wares are silver.

If you have an item marked "E.P.N.S." or "E.P," it is not sterling silver. It is simply plated. E.P.N.S. means electro plated nickel silver. If you have an item with markings such as "Wm Rogers Mfg" with no other markings, your item is not sterling. It is silver plate.

NOTE: Before you buy anything on eBay represented to be sterling, email the seller and get complete information as to the exact markings on the item so that you can make your own determination of whether the item is indeed sterling. Do not rely on any representations made by the seller if they are not supported by photos showing the hallmarks, as many sellers do not know the difference between sterling, silver plate, coin, or any other metal. Most eBay sellers are "jacks-of-all-trades" and not silver experts. It is your responsibility as a buyer to know what you are bidding on! If you buy an item claimed to be sterling and you find that it is not, and you have not asked the proper questions, the problem is yours, not the seller's.
Is there such a thing as unmarked sterling? Yes. Items such as knife handles, umbrella handles, cane handles, stirrers and sippers, and other items may in fact be made of sterling, but may not have any markings whatsoever. The absence of a sterling hallmark makes an item questionable, whereas an item with genuine hallmarks is beyond question.

Keep in mind that hallmarks, like anything of value, can be faked.

Much high end fine silverware produced in Japan is .950 fine (some is even 1.000 fine), as is some produced in France and other countries. This finer silver can legally be termed sterling.

The .9584 fine silver produced in Great Britain is termed "Britannia standard" silver, which must not be confused with Britannia ware, which contains no silver whatsoever. Britannia ware is an alloy of tin, copper and antimony.

American and Canadian made sterling silver will be marked with the word "Sterling" or some variation of the .925 marking such as 925/1000 or simply 925. Some old Irish silver is also marked with the word sterling, however that marking ceased to be officially used in Great Britain centuries ago.

Therefore, if you have an item with some hallmarks in combination with the word sterling, it is probably not English (however there are exceptions). One sometimes sees American silver such as that of Gorham represented as English. The Gorham hallmark since 1865 is that of a lion facing right, an anchor and the letter "G." Prior to 1865 the Gorham lion faced left, as one would find on British sterling.

Some deceptive eBay sellers would have you believe that the Gorham hallmarks are those of a Birmingham, England maker since the anchor is the town mark on English silver for the city of Birmingham. "A little learning is a dangerous thing."

From 1544 onwards British sterling was hallmarked with a punch showing the figure of a walking lion facing left, known as the lion passant.

In 1697 the Britannia standard of .9584 was introduced to prevent coinage, which at that time was of a fineness of .925, from being melted down to make silver objects. At that time the punch became the allegorical figure of Britannia. In 1720 the .925 standard was reinstated and from that time until today the Britannia standard has co-existed with the .925 sterling standard.

Denmark has, for the past 80+ years, produced some of the finest hand made sterling, such as the works of Georg Jensen, and those Danish pieces are frequently marked "sterling," sometimes in combination with the international sterling designation of 925.

American Sterling
If you have a piece of American silver which is not marked "sterling" or a variation of .925, it is emphatically not sterling. It may be coin silver or it could be plated silver.

In some instances a piece of American sterling may be marked only ".925." For example, the sterling made by John R. Wendt of New York in the late 19th Century is frequently marked only ".925."

It is also common for American sterling to be hallmarked by the maker and marked with the name of the retailer. In some cases, a piece of sterling may have only the same of the retailer and the word "Sterling" and no maker's hallmark.

One of the most notable and prolific of the retailers is J. E. Caldwell of Philadelphia, and one frequently encounters sterling which bears their name, either alone or in combination with the actual maker's hallmark. From ca. 1850 to the present, they retailed an immense quantity of fine sterling.

Coin silver is so named because it literally was made from melted coinage, which had a guaranteed silver content of .900 fine.

In early American times, you might take a piece or two of old silver spoons and some coins to the silversmith who would melt the items down and reshape them into the new items desired.

The word "Sterling" first appears on American silver circa 1800 when it was used by Baltimore silversmiths circa 1800-1814. Most American silver items made through circa 1860 were made of .900 coin silver and after that date most, but not all, makers changed to the .925 standard. One frequently finds silver flatware of the period with examples of an identical pattern in both sterling and coin. Much early Gorham flatware, for example, exists in both sterling and coin.

A few makers continued to produce coin silver well into the early 20th Century. In a few instances American coin silver may be marked "coin" or "pure coin," however in most cases American coin silver is not so marked. American coin silver is frequently marked with the hallmarks of the maker or of the retailer.

If you have a coin silver item hallmarked only with a number, such as "12" or "13" it is not American; it is European. If a silver item is marked "84" it is probably Russian.

Depending upon the maker, an otherwise ordinary coin silver item may be exceedingly valuable. American coin silver from the late 1600's through the third quarter of the 18th Century can be very valuable.

One should not assume that plated silver is always less valuable than coin silver or sterling silver. In some cases, plated items, especially those of the 19th century, can be quite valuable.

Consult experts, appraisers, silver dealers or reference libraries in your city if you require information about the silver you own.

Never attempt to perform destructive tests on your silver. Never try to cut a notch to see if the silver is solid. Always research an item before you dispose of it in any way. It may or may not have value.

We recently researched a plain silver cup for a client who thought the cup might be of tin or some other base metal. We identified the item as American coin silver circa 1670. The item sold for thousands of dollars on eBay and was donated by the buyer to a major museum.

The study of silver hallmarks is a specialized area and for beginners we recommend the following references:

International Hallmarks on Silver by Tardy

The Book of Old Silver by Seymour B. Wyler

Kovel's American Silver Marks by Ralph and Terry Kovel

London Goldsmiths by Arthur Grimwade

Jackson's Hallmarks, English, Irish Silver & Gold Marks by Ian Pickford

American Silversmiths and Their Marks by Stephen G. C. Ensko

A Silver Collector's Glossary of Early American Silversmiths by Hollis French

Encyclopedia of American Silver Manufacturers by Dorothy T. Rainwater and Judy Redfield. Judy Redfield is an eBay seller.

This guide will introduce you to the first hard paste porcelain produced in Europe. We will explore the porcelain manufactory's history, introduce key periods, and briefly discuss marks.
Meissen
Note: The links below are intended to be general guides and will likely generate search results of non-authentic Meissen* reproductions. Please be advised that Meissen is one of the most copied brands in existence and generally 1% of "Meissen" items offered on eBay are authentic. Kindly leave a vote at the bottom of page if you find this information helpful.

History


Augustus "The Strong"

Hard paste porcelain was first produced in Europe at Meissen, Germany on the banks of the Elbe river in the oldest city in Saxony, near Dresden A factory was established at the fortress Albrechtsburg by Augustus II (1670-1733), Elector of Saxony (as Frederick Augustus I) and King of Poland, one of the wealthiest Monarchs and most important patrons of the arts of his age. While his reign marked the decline of Poland's position as a European power, his contributions to the applied arts gave birth to the world's finest porcelain. Augustus "The Strong" was so fond of of fine Chinese porcelain that he traded a regiment of 600 soldiers for 151 pieces. In fact, his appetite for far eastern wares resulted in a collection numbering an astounding 20,000 pieces.

At this time Italians and French craftsmen were only able to produce soft paste porcelain from a mixture of white clay and ground glass. Europe was on a quest to discover the secrets of hard paste porcelain that the Chinese produced with their kaolin clays. It was August's imprisoned chemist Johann Friedrich Bottger (1682-1719) who discovered a alabaster fluxed ceramic in 1708 while working on a mandate to produce gold. Bottger was no alchemist's apprentice as is romanticized. His master, Count Tschirnhaus, was a Prussian apothecary. and Bottger arrived in Dresden fleeing a murder warrant for poisoning him. Nevertheless, it was Bottger that would achieve fame for creating a true white porcelain that was excellent for shaping into the popular silver forms of the day when in 1710 kaolin clay was discovered nearby. During the early years red stoneware and porcelain were produced.



St. Hedwig Cathedral Commemorative Medallion (1773-1973) in Bottger Red Stoneware on box.

It is said that Bottger often escaped his captivity and was always recaptured. In his solace he turned to alcohol which eventually killed him at 37. After Bottger's death in 1719, Augustus brought in Gregor Herold (or Horoldt) (1696 - 1775) as manager. Techniques of both decoration and production were to improve significantly over the next twenty five years. During this period, most of the tablewares were of simple forms so as to provide a backdrop for the exquisite decoration. The first colored pieces were breakfast sets and chocolate cups. Meissen porcelain began to be decorated with fine enamel painting that even surpassed some of the Chinese painting.

Johann Gottlob Kirchner (1727-1733), a sculptor, was engaged in in 1727. He made life size figures of birds and animals for a porcelain meangerie that had been planned for the upper floor of Augustus's Japanese Palace at Dresden. The ambition of the project remains unparalleled in the history of ceramics. Johann Joachim Kändler was hired as an assistant to Kirchner and began producing models for the animals. In addition, he produced crinolines figures and groups. In fact, Augustus had Kändler produce figures of everyone in his service! After Kirchner was discharged in 1731, Kändler, with the assistance of a legion of modelers, modeled figurines that endow museum collections worldwide. He designed the legendary 2,000+ piece Swan Service for Count von Bruhl. The styles were influenced by the Rococo style after 1740. This is the time that the famous blue onion pattern emerged.

The factory ruled supreme until Saxony's defeat in the Seven Years War (1756-1763). In fact, the factory was severely damaged and even occupied by Prussian victors. Meissen's secrets were leaked from Vienna by the 1750's and seven major German firms resulted along with twenty smaller ones. However, many of the concerns folded usually after the enterprising founder died. It must be added that 1750 was also the decade that one of Meissen's arch rivals, Sevres, began producing some of the world's finest porcelain in neighboring France which hastened the decline.

The factory was reorganized by the famous modeler Michel Victor Acier and fortunes were revived. The stylistic considerations were shifted to Neo-classicism with the introduction of mythological figures. Decorations were copied from Sevres. The style shifted to Louis XVI under the Marcolini Period (1774-1814) which ended with the Napoleonic wars. Count Marcolini was an outstanding manager and the Empire style started being applied to production in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The artist Jüchtzer (b.1752-d.1812) who worked with Kändler, revived the classical styles: crowns, pyramids, swans, sphinxes, and other styles celebrating Napoleon's past glories. However Napoleon's assault on Germany left the country impoverished and demand for Meissen goods nonexistent.



August Graf Neithardt von Gneisenau Commemorative Medallion (1760-1831)

The Kühn Period, named for the Director, lasted from 1833 to 1870 and was characterized by an economic and technical rebirth. He began rebuilding the company's fortunes by selling white porcelain and investing in production. He eventually introduced new colors and launched a revival of grand pieces from one hundred years earlier. The modeller Leuteritz (b.1818-d.1893) resurrected the older rococo styles and created some of the finest large pieces. All of this helped to boost sales.

The New Period started in 1870 with the death of Kühn and the employment of Raithel as Director who would guide the factory for the next twenty five years. Many exports were made to America. In 1884 Raithel extended the factory building several new kilns to meet growing demand. Endrich Andersen succeeded Leuteritz in 1886 as head of the modelling department and was responsible for grand pieces such as large scale mirrors. The New Period was characterized by the new style of Art Nouveau which supplanted the older styles. Konrad Hentschel was a famous modeller of this period. He is known for the simple and plain details on his charming children and other figures.

Find a New Period piece!

Meissen survives and even thrives today with an incredible 175,000 original and new designs still in production. There are over 300 dinner services to choose from. Blue onion alone has over 750 pieces to choose from. New models are made as closely as possible to old shapes with the best quality and craftsmanship available anywhere. The good news for eBay members is that you will probably score a great deal in your auction if you can find an authentic piece. The high cost of labor due to German reunification means that customers at Meissen pay four times more than what a "used" piece sells for on the secondary market (that's us!).



This example of the "Pink Onion" pattern was graciously provided by an eBay member. The central motif features aster and peony flowers with a sprawling bamboo stalk. The rims are decorated with peaches and pomegranates. This fruit was mistaken for an onion by Europeans, but the name stayed.

Marks
Note: Beware of imitation Meissen bearing a Meissen mark. Imitators began copying Meissen's designs since it's inception. Collectors, auctioneers, and dealers alike have been fooled into believing their fake was a authentic piece of Meissen. One can not rely on marks alone. Please use caution.

For the first hundred years of porcelain manufacture there were only two pigments that could withstand high firing temperatures: iron red and colbalt blue. The latter was more popular and hence most European porcelain is marked with an underglaze blue mark.



AR The very first European porcelain mark. The Augustus Rex monogram was used in 1873 as a trademark and is still used on special pieces. Caution: Mark must be studied carefully as was copied by many Dresden factories, most notably Helena Wolfsohn. These artful copies are nonetheless prized today.



Pseudo Chinese marks were sometimes used between c. 1720-1725.



An eBay member kindly provided this photograph of a pseudo Chinese mark.

Crossed Swords Marks
K. P. F. The mark denoting "Konigliche Pozellan Fabrik" occurs 1723 and is the first factory mark used as a guarantee of origin.

M C S c.1730-35 on Augsburg decorated pieces.

M. P. M. c.1723-24 rare.

K. P. M. c.1723-24 on teapots and sugar bowls.

The classic crossed swords taken from the arms of Augustus the Strong and first used in 1724 as a very small version in either blue or black overglaze.

Prior to 1745 some crossed swords have tiny blobs at the tip of the handles.

From 1763 to 1774 a dot appears between the hilt of the swords. Caution: Often imitated mark.

From 1774 until 1814 a star generally appears above the handles. Caution: Often imitated mark.

From 1814 to 1818 The Roman Numerals I or II accompany the crossed swords.

From 1818 until 1824 the swords are long and slightly curved blades.

From 1924 the crossed swords marks appear with a dot between the points of the blades. In previous "Dot" periods the dot appears between the handles.



Year Marks
From 1948 an additional (year) mark is found on Meissen porcelain.

Painters Marks
On the base you will find an incised pattern number along with a painter's mark. If it is a group, you will find the same numbers repeated on each piece of the set.

Seconds Mark
Meissen does nto produce seconds, contrary to the polular lore concerning crossed hatch marks.


The Imitations
The following companies used marks similar to that of Meissen:

Anspach

Arnstadt

Berlin

Bristol

Buschbad

Caughley

Charlottenbrun

Chelsea

Choisy-le-Roi

Derby

Dresden

Fontainebleau

Gräfenroda

Hohenberg

Hüttensteinach

Ilmenau

Kronach

Kronach

Longton Hall

Lowestoft

Montreuil-sous-Bois

Moscow

Nieder-Salzbrunn

Nymphenburg

Oberhohndorf

Paris

Potschappel

Rauenstein

Schney

Schwarzenbach / Saale

Sitzerode

Tiefenfurt

Tournai

Volkstedt-Rudolstadt

Wallendorf

Weesp

Worcestshire
*Meissen, Meissen Porcelain, The Meissen logotype, and the Crossed Swords mark are registered trademarks of the Staatliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Meissen, GmbH. These trademarks may not be used in connection with any product or service that does not belong to the Staatliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Meissen, in any manner that is likely to cause confusion among customers, or in any manner that disparages or discredits the Staatliche Porzellan-Manufaktur Meissen and it subsidiaries.

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